Baltimore’s Farm-to-Table Darling

A local restaurant with two mentions this year in Bon Appetit? We had to see what all the fuss was about, regardless if it meant an hour’s drive to northwest Baltimore, with a token mile-drive through The Wire territory. (Yep, that is what Baltimore really looks like). Woodberry Kitchen is located in a renovated foundry complex (not far from said territory), replete with lofty ceilings and sustainable frills galore, Dwell-style. We were seated upstairs in 3-sided rectangular booth, which was awkward at best. All of us faced out, as if we were the panel for some contest. The judgment? Cocktails and appetizers merit a visit, but skip on the entrees, which are too big, too expensive, and ultimately too boring.

To be more specific:

Things began wonderfully: I ordered the Farmer’s Daughter cocktail (cucumber-infused vodka and watermelon juice; $10)– it was probably one of the best cocktails I’ve ever had. Not too sweet, fresh, clean. I was also impressed with the other three cocktails at the table, especially the Gov’t Mule (vodka, housemade ginger beer, lime-ginger syrup; $10), which was served in a copper mug.
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Then came our spread of appetizers. The buffalo soft-shell crabs and Chesapeake-style oysters (baked, with crab on top; $15; pictured above) were divine. The chicken wings were moist and flavorful, if not terribly inventive, and the pork buns were just so-so—think: miniature BBQ pork sandwiches with too much of a bread/pork ratio.

Entrees were a big disappointment. The burgers were a hit (and a value, $15), but my fish and chips ($21) were bland as could be. Fresh fish, but just very boring. Fellow diners weren’t wowed by their entree’s either. The suckling pig was fine, but forgettable; the $31 Kansas strip steak was flavorless.

Desserts were okay. The carrot cake ($9) was the table favorite—3 golf-ball sized squares of warm cake with homemade rum-raisin ice cream in the middle—but I probably could have done without.